Ubud is supposed to be tranquil, or so the reputation goes. Bali’s spiritual heart, should greet us with whispers, wind chimes, incense, and the gentle suggestion that all haste has been left behind. Instead, Ubud announces itself loudly and unapologetically. This is the first lesson. Ubud is not calm in the way postcards and blogs promise; but, the rhythm shifts. Plans falter. Time stretches. You stop trying to conquer the day and learn instead to step aside, order an iced c

Travel, we are told, rewards careful planning. Routes researched, tickets booked, contingencies considered. And then there is Bali, which has a rather charming habit of ignoring all of that. Our neatly conceived plan to glide effortlessly from Ubud to Bedugul by bus lasted just long enough to be gently dismantled by reality, leaving us instead with a Grab, a last cup of coffee, and the beginning of a journey that would trade schedules for scenery, and certainty for something